Tuesday, May 25, 2010

For what so disliked poor Olivier? After weighing all the pros and cons

Whenever it comes to shape, diet, healthy lifestyle, and most interestingly, about misspecification lifestyle, commemorate a bad word old, good, I adore salad "Olivier". And calorie-it, and some fat from his waist and hips lovely ladies is growing, and the proletarian, and the person in it after heavy Christmas effusions fall uncomfortable ... 

It's time to debunk the myths and return to its former glory unjustly offended predostoyneyshemu "Olivier" .

First, a bit of background, and "for dessert" recipe of my grandmother for the production of the aforementioned salad, which is carefully passed down from generation to generation in our family and I hope you enjoy and, captious reader.

The rich Moscow merchant Jacob Pegov and French cook Olivier captive during the war with Napoleon, and so they settled in Russia, bought the land from "Afonka tavern, known drinking establishment, made a first-class French restaurant.

In his essay, VA Gilyarovskogo "on the pipeline" tells in detail about the creation in the 1860's, the inn "Hermitage" in Pipe Square. The building survived the inn, this house 14 to Petrovsky Boulevard, corner Neglinna, now there are publishing and theater.

The people here are going to elect, with the excellent taste to chrevougodnichanyu, and a new salad Monsieur Chef instantly became popular.

Alexei Borodin: "It consisted of cooked fillet of grouse and partridges, arrangements of layers of jelly broth. Along the edges of dishes were boiled crawfish and small pieces of language. In the center of the design adorned gorochka potatoes with cornichons and sliced boiled eggs as decoration.

One day Lucien Olivier noticed that some Russian, order this dish, just broke the whole scheme, mixing spoon, the entire structure, and with great gusto devoured this tasty mass. On another day, an enterprising Frenchman mixed all components and thickly poured sauce.

"The recipe was a secret, which Olivier took with him to the grave (buried at the cemetery in Moscow, in 2008, his tomb restored). For the first time it was published in the book, PP Alexandrova's "Guide to the fundamentals of culinary arts" in 1897 edition.

That's part of this salad (although already in its period of decline - 1904), recreated from memory one of the regulars of the restaurant:

• meat cooked two grouse
• One boiled veal tongue,
• 100 grams of pressed black caviar
• 200 grams of fresh lettuce,
• 25 boiled crawfish or 1 can of lobster,
• half a jar of very small pickled gherkins (pickles)
• half a jar of soy Kabul (spicy sauce)
• Two chopped fresh cucumber,
• 100 grams of capers (plant, whose spicy pickled flower buds),
• finely chopped 5 eggs, hard-boiled.

Sauce "Provence" , invented by the talented Olivier (French vinegar, egg yolks and pound olive olive oil), gave the salad taste. They say that the chef was preparing the sauce is always in a room behind a closed door and add to it some magical seasonings. This mystery is a murky and unlikely ever to be solved.

Over the years, the ingredients have changed depending on the tastes and wallets of its creators.

In France, the dish did not take root. "Here, love is like fish salad -" nitsuas. “Instead of taking the fish meat. Adds eggs, potatoes, carrots, green peas and asparagus. Rybno-vegetable salad is filled with mayonnaise, mixed with green basil and ginger. Put a bit of cucumber. (Www.gazeta.ua)

But in Russia, a country where almost half cold and lots of potatoes, completely myself stuck.

Why only "Olivier" in my memory is not planing. Carrots boiled, pickled cucumbers, fresh cucumbers, green onion, onion, sausage, Doctorate, ham overseas can (straaashny deficit was, in the order given), the domestic chicken (after which the restaurants appeared salad) and even an apple.

My grandmother cooked it so (and I willed).

Take a bowl with a flat bottom. We cut relatively so little cubes of boiled beef, is better than good. I really at this point not often follow the precepts. I use some horrible, that is, that in the soup to cook. It is very convenient: the first and second time.

Now the most important thing! Flat bottom - a necessary element of the process, since all the ingredients must meet at the bottom of the equidimensional knots. Kuchka is measured by the number of meat. The size of cubes, respectively, also should not differ.

Hard-boiled eggs, pickles (strong, tasty and desirable from the familiar drum grandmother with the local market), potato, canned peas (preferably from the firm Bonduelle, or good old Hungarian). Salt, pepper to taste, mayonnaise. salad should soak! And - voila! - Welcome to the table!

I really, really like Olivier in grandma's version. Most of his cooking. About calories and body fat in different places do not think, because I think that their (calories and sediment) availability does not spoil the appearance of such a raving beauty, as I do.

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